-
Period: to
The History of European Clothing
-
Absolutism and the Staging of Aristocracy
This portrait is titled “Louis XIV” by Henri Testelin (1668). This image demonstrates the highly curated image which nobles created for themselves during the era of absolutism. The staging, clothing, and colours are all symbolic elements used to consolidate the strength of the King's rule. Today, Louis XIV remains a symbol of absolutism during the classical age in France, and this painting is an excellent example of the ways in which monarchs would make themselves appear impressive and imposing. -
Absolutism and the Staging of Aristocracy
This portrait is of the Russian Empress Catherine the Great by Fyodor Rokotov. Both Catherine and Louis XIV's portraits show the importance of staging in the context of absolutist rulers. However, there is a gendered aspect which makes them different. As a woman, Catherine has to remain both powerful and humble, while Louis has no expectations other than to look imposing. In addition to the softer colour scheme of her dress, Catherine also looks away in the painting, a symbol of humility. -
Revolutionary France
This painting was created in 1792 by Louis-Léopold Boilly, titled "Idealized Sans Culotte". While the subject is not a real member of the Sans Culottes, Boilly captures the essence of a working class revolutionary fighter. The subject personifies the image of the average citizen, with common clothes instead of the typical uniform of the Sans Culottes. He is also carrying the tricoloured flag, signifying the power that revolutions have when acted on through the agency of regular citizens. -
The Industrial Revolution
Sketched in 1840 and printed in 1867, this piece is titled "The British Beehive" by George Cruikshank. In this comic, the artist creates a clear social hierarchy; this image reflects his view on the necessity of maintaining order, despite the acceleration created by the revolution. Despite this organization, it is notable that clothing does not vary greatly across the beehive. This reflects the changes in production which gave the working class access to cheaper and better quality materials. -
Homosexual Subculture and Style
This photo was taken in 1921, at a party of the Institute for Sexual Science in Berlin. In this photo, we can see German sexologist Magnus Hirschfeld (a pioneer for LGBTQ+ rights), holding hands with his partner, Karl Giese. Through crossdressing and use of makeup, queer people of the 1920's paved the way for future homosexuals by increasing awareness and tolerance. In addition to this, their bold choices in style also influenced fashion of later decades, specifically in queer spaces. -
German Expressionism
This painting is called “Großstadt (Metropolis)” and was painted in 1927-28 by Otto Dix. This painting showcases both the style of the wealthy elites, and the working class, who are shown suffering at the aftermath of the war. Dix's style is significant because it creates an element of comfort and despair in this triptych, thus capturing both aspects of the 1920s in Europe. Through stylistic choices, we can clearly see the vast difference between the different social orders.