Northern Renaissance Menswear (1500-1550)

Phase 1

Period: 1500 to 1515

The ideas and movement of the Italian Renaissance including the rebirth of Classical Arts and the exchange of ideas promoted by warfare had been spread to and embraced by Northern Europe. Increased trade and travel also brought in new fabrics and materials as well as foreign styles. During this time fashion was spread more slowly and was often defined by the ruling class of the time rather than changing every decade. This phase was characterized by a more slender silhouette

Jerkin

1501

A close-fitting men’s jacket, often worn for warmth, sometimes without sleeves. It was worn over a doublet in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.

Henry VIII Becomes King of England

1509

Henry VIII establishes the National Church of England which was independent of Rome, but maintained basic catholic beliefs. He ruled from 1509 to 1547, and his court fashions greatly influenced this time period.

Sumptuary Laws

1510

In 1510, English Parliament passed an extensive and detailed law regulating the wearing of all sorts of fabrics and of trim from fur to gold and silver. These materials and decorations were reserved for the upper class and nobility, making some of these fashions inaccessible to the lower class. Although there was not a dedicated enforcement of these laws.

Bases

1510

Bases were a separate skirt piece men wore with a jerkin or doublet. They were usually worn over hose or breeches and were worn by both nobility and the military

Phase 2

Period: 1515 to 1550

The silhouette of men's wear at this time began to widen. Wide shouldered garments with full sleeves decorated with puffs, slashes or panes became popular. There was a lot of German influence in the fashion. Most likely due to Henry VIII's marriage to Anne of Cleves in an attempt to alliance himself with the Protestants of Western Germany to strengthen his position against Catholic France and the Holy Roman Empire.

Slashing

1520

This decorative technique involved the cutting of outer garments to reveal the undergarments underneath. This decorative technique was found not only on menswear of the time but women's wear and even shoes. It was first introduced by the Swiss Army. After the Swiss defeat of Charles the Bold in Burgundy in 1477 the troops cut up of tents and banners and threaded the scraps in their own torn clothing. The effect of a bright fabric peeking through a torn outer garment was admired by the wealthy.

Codpieces Popularized by Henry VIII

1520

Henry VIII popularized the exaggerated codpieces in popular dress. Codpieces were small flaps or pouches that covered men's genitals as they wore short doublets with only hose (long socks) as undergarments. The codpiece's original function was to cover the gap left by hose and the doublets so not to expose oneself. During this time Henry VIII wore exaggerated and decorated codpieces to have an air of virility and masculinity.

Paning

1530

This decorative technique stemmed from slashing and it's popularity. It provided the illusion of slashing by sewing long strips of parallel of fabric together with space between to reveal the contrasting fabric of the undergarment. Paned garments had a longer lifespan than slashed garments as it was a less destructive technique.

Edward VI Becomes King

1547

Edward VI was crowned at age nine following the death of his father Henry VII. He ruled for six short years and died at age 16 after falling ill.

Phase 3

Period: 1550 to 1600

During this time the silhouette and style changed drastically. Garments had narrower shoulders and grew gradually wider at hip. Doublets worn with different styles of trunk hose, hose, or breeches often with a short cape. The fashion of the time had a distinct Spanish Influence. Ruffs also became a popular accessory at the time.