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2000 BCE
Where the Sport Began
A book written by Jim Heimann called, "Surfing," is based on over three years of intense research of the surfboard as well as where the sport originated. The research found shows that the a rough form of the sport began in Tahiti around the year of 2000 BC. However, the origin of the sport can be traced back to 1200 AD in Hawaii. Source:
https://www.wired.com/2016/02/fascinating-evolution-surfboard/ -
1200 BCE
Early Forms of the SurfBoard
Research found by Matt Warshaw in his book, "The History of Surfing," shows that the early surfers of the sport used boards that were made wood, like a woodcrafter creating a door. However, Polynesian royalty used expertly handcrafted boards, and the boards were considered to be holy. There are 3 primary types: The Long Olo - 20 ft, the small paipo (for children), and the alaia (used by the ruling class). Source:
https://www.wired.com/2016/02/fascinating-evolution-surfboard/ -
1200 BCE
The Alaia SurfBoard
The alaia surfboard was the most the most commonly used surfboard for centuries. Starting from its origin in Hawaii in 1200 AD, this type of board was used throughout royal families and higher class villagers.The design of the board allowed for easy maneuverability and control as well as the board being able to paddle through the water fairly nicely. Source:
https://www.wired.com/2016/02/fascinating-evolution-surfboard/ -
1200 BCE
The Long Olo
This surfboard is considered to be one of Hawaiian royalty. The long olo surfboard was usually built from wiliwili wood. The longest olo board was actually 17 feet longs, is nearly 6 inches thick, and is finless. Strangely enough, the locals would pray at the trees in which olo boards were created. These boards were treated with such care that the locals would put mud on it, clean it, put oil on it, clean it, and then oil it again. Source:
http://encyclopediaofsurfing.com/entries/olo-board -
RedWood Holes
Hundreds of years pass before any major changes are made to the surfboard. This change being made by a Santa Monica surf driven lifeguard who decided surfboards could be significantly lighter and easier to maneuver. The man was named Tom Blake and would forever change the way people surf even until this day. Blake decided to cut little holes into redwood surfboards that would make the surfboard as light as 40lbs. (Light4TTB) Source:
https://www.wired.com/2016/02/fascinating-evolution-surfboard/ -
The SurfBoard Fin is Added
The creator of the holes in the side of the surfboard, decided the surfboard could still be improved. Tom Blake asked a boater what the fin in the back was for and why it was necessary. The boater told him the fin was for stability as well as easier maneuverability. In hearing this, Tom Blake decides to add a similar fin to the bottom of the surfboard which is an invention that has changed surfing. Source:
http://www.surfinghandbook.com/surfboard-design/surfboard-fins/surfboard-fin-history/ -
Second Evolution of the Fin
For years, people were surfing with single fin boards. Of course, innovation came and a more reliable, controllable board was made with two fins as opposed to one. The first person to show such an innovation was an Australian named Mark Richards, who competed in surf competitions with the dual fin board and wowed the crowd/judges. The second fin allows for much sharper and smoother turns while riding. Source:
http://www.surfinghandbook.com/surfboard-design/surfboard-fins/surfboard-fin-history/ -
The Final Innovation
In the 1970's, a man by the name of Simon Anderson was fed up with the inability to control his surfboard while riding the large swells in the North Shore of Oahu. He realized that a smaller third fin would help add control and maneuverability while riding much larger waves. After testing, he decided three fins of equal size were the best option. This innovation is seen even in todays surfing community Source:
http://www.surfinghandbook.com/surfboard-design/surfboard-fins/surfboard-fin-history/
